The Art of Saying No: Why Curated Frame Inventory Beats Chasing Every New Line
The frame rep arrives with beautiful samples. The collection is stunning—modern styles, quality construction, celebrity endorsements, gorgeous displays. Your opticians are excited. Patients would love them. It feels like saying "yes" is the obvious choice.
But then you look at the numbers: the minimum buy is $8,000, the wholesale cost requires a 2.5x markup just to break even on overhead, the rep is vague about promotional support, and you're not confident these frames will sell fast enough to justify the capital investment and display space.
This is the moment that separates practice owners from practice managers. Managers focus on having options and keeping people happy. Owners focus on profitability, inventory velocity, and strategic growth.
Learning to say "no" to frame lines—even attractive ones—is one of the most important skills you'll develop as a practice owner. It's also one of the hardest, because saying "no" disappoints people: the rep who worked hard on the presentation, the opticians who were excited about the collection, and even patients who might have wanted those specific styles.
But a disciplined approach to frame inventory is what separates profitable optical departments from glorified frame museums that tie up cash, depress margins, and create constant clearance pressure.
The Hidden Cost of Too Many Frame Lines
Most practice owners intuitively understand that carrying too much inventory is expensive. But they underestimate just how expensive—and how many ways inventory excess damages profitability.
1. Capital tied up in slow-moving inventory
Every dollar invested in frames sitting on your boards is a dollar not available for other uses: marketing, staff training, equipment maintenance, debt reduction, or your own compensation.
If you have $50,000 in frame inventory and half of it turns slowly (sitting 12+ months before selling), you have $25,000 of capital locked up earning you nothing. That money could be generating returns elsewhere.
2. Display space is limited and valuable
You have finite display space. Every slow-moving frame occupying a slot is preventing you from displaying a fast-moving, high-margin frame that would actually sell.
If you carry 15 frame lines but only 5 of them generate 80% of your sales (a common distribution), you're using valuable display real estate to showcase products most patients ignore.
3. Staff confusion and decision paralysis
When opticians have too many options to choose from, they struggle to guide patients efficiently. Instead of confidently recommending 3-4 great options from familiar lines, they overwhelm patients with 15-20 options from unfamiliar collections, creating decision paralysis that slows sales and reduces conversion.
4. Margin erosion through clearance pressure
When frames sit too long, you eventually need to discount them to move inventory. This destroys margin on products you've already invested in, and it trains patients to wait for sales rather than paying full price.
5. Administrative burden
Every frame line requires vendor management, inventory tracking, ordering processes, product knowledge training, warranty handling, and accounting. Fifteen frame lines create vastly more administrative complexity than five carefully chosen lines—with diminishing returns.
The cumulative cost of these factors often exceeds the direct cost of the inventory itself. A "beautiful" frame line that doesn't sell profitably isn't just a missed opportunity—it's actively costing you money every month it sits on your boards.
The Strategic Frame Inventory Framework
Instead of saying "yes" to every attractive collection, build a systematic framework for evaluating frame lines. This removes emotion from the decision and creates objective criteria you can communicate to reps and staff.
Here are the key factors to evaluate:
Factor 1: Margin Requirements
Minimum acceptable markup: Most healthy optical departments need at least 2.5-3x markup on frames (wholesale cost × 2.5-3 = retail price) to cover overhead and generate profit.
Why it matters: Lower markup means you need to sell dramatically more volume to achieve the same profitability. A frame line with 2x markup requires 50% more sales to generate the same gross profit as a 3x markup line.
How to evaluate:
Calculate the wholesale cost of typical frames in the line
Apply your required markup (usually 2.5-3x)
Compare to market pricing: Can you actually charge that much in your market?
If you'd need to charge less than your required markup to be competitive, the line doesn't work financially
Example:
Frame wholesale cost: $80
Required markup for profitability: 3x
Necessary retail price: $240
Market competitive price: $180-200
Verdict: This line doesn't meet margin requirements at competitive pricing. Pass.
Factor 2: Sales Velocity Potential
Minimum acceptable turn rate: Healthy frame inventory turns 1.5-2+ times per year. This means each frame should sell and be replaced 1.5-2 times annually.
Why it matters: Slow-turning inventory ties up capital, takes valuable display space, and increases the likelihood you'll eventually need to discount to clear it.
How to evaluate:
Ask the rep: "What's the average sell-through rate for this line at practices similar to ours?"
Consider your patient demographic: Does this style align with your typical patient base?
Look at your existing lines: Do you already carry something similar that sells well? If yes, will this line cannibalize those sales or complement them?
Be honest: Do these styles actually match what your patients buy, or just what you/your staff like?
Red flags:
Rep can't provide turn rate data
Styles are trendy/fashion-forward in a conservative market (or vice versa)
You already carry 2-3 similar lines that sell well
Styles require extensive patient education or styling expertise your team doesn't have
Factor 3: Minimum Buy and Reorder Requirements
Maximum acceptable initial investment: Most practices should limit initial frame line investments to $3,000-5,000 unless it's a proven category.
Why it matters: High minimum buys create cash flow pressure and increase your risk if the line doesn't perform. You're committing significant capital before knowing whether your specific patients will respond.
How to evaluate:
What's the minimum initial order? (Often 24-36 frames)
What's the average wholesale cost per frame?
What's the total cash outlay? (minimum order × average cost)
What are reorder minimums and terms?
Can you start smaller and expand if successful?
Negotiation approach: If you love the line but the minimum buy is too high, negotiate: "We'd like to start with 12 frames to test patient response. If they sell well, we'll expand to a full board within six months."
Many reps will accommodate smaller test buys for new practices or relationships.
Factor 4: Vendor Support and Terms
Essential vendor support elements:
Marketing materials (posters, social media content, patient education)
Staff training (product knowledge, styling, fitting)
Display fixtures (boards, signage)
Promotional support (co-op advertising, trunk shows)
Favorable payment terms (net 30-60 rather than payment on order)
Return/exchange policy for damaged or defective frames
Warranty support
Why it matters: Vendor support dramatically affects your success with a line. A line with excellent support can outperform a technically "better" line with poor support.
How to evaluate:
Ask specifically: "What marketing support do you provide?"
Request examples: "Can you show me the staff training materials?"
Negotiate: "We'll commit to this line if you include display fixtures and quarterly trunk shows."
Red flags:
Rep is vague about support: "We have lots of materials available"
No staff training offered
You must purchase displays separately
Strict payment terms (cash on delivery, no returns)
Factor 5: Strategic Fit
Questions to assess strategic fit:
Does this line fill a gap in our current collection? (If you don't have a good sports/active line, adding one fills a gap. Adding a fifth luxury designer line when you already have four doesn't.)
Does it align with our brand positioning? (If you position as family-friendly and affordable, ultra-luxury frames don't fit. If you position as premium boutique, budget frames don't fit.)
Does it serve a patient segment we want to grow? (If you're trying to attract more younger professionals, a modern minimalist line fits. If you're strong with seniors and don't need younger patients, maybe not.)
Will it differentiate us from competitors? (If every practice in town carries Ray-Ban, adding Ray-Ban doesn't differentiate. Finding a similar-quality line that's exclusive to your practice does.)
Why it matters: Even a profitable frame line can be strategically wrong if it dilutes your brand, confuses your positioning, or doesn't serve your growth goals.
The Decision Matrix
Create a simple scoring system to evaluate frame lines objectively:
Margin Meets Minimum (2.5–3x)
Weight: 25%
Score (1–5): [ ]
Weighted Score: = Weight × Score
Sales Velocity Potential
Weight: 25%
Score (1–5): [ ]
Weighted Score: = Weight × Score
Acceptable Minimum Buy
Weight: 15%
Score (1–5): [ ]
Weighted Score: = Weight × Score
Strong Vendor Support
Weight: 15%
Score (1–5): [ ]
Weighted Score: = Weight × Score
Strategic Fit
Weight: 20%
Score (1–5): [ ]
Weighted Score: = Weight × Score
Total
Weight: 100%
Total Weighted Score: = Σ (Weight × Score)
5 = Excellent (exceeds expectations)
4 = Good (meets expectations solidly)
3 = Acceptable (meets minimum requirements)
2 = Below standard (concerning)
1 = Unacceptable (doesn't meet requirements)
Decision rules:
Weighted score 4.0+: Strong yes
Weighted score 3.5-3.9: Yes, with negotiation to improve weak areas
Weighted score 3.0-3.4: Maybe, proceed with caution or small test buy
Weighted score below 3.0: No
This framework removes emotion and creates defensible, consistent decisions.
How to Say "No" Without Burning Bridges
Once you've decided a frame line doesn't meet your criteria, you need to communicate that decision professionally—to the rep, to your team, and occasionally to patients.
Saying "No" to Frame Reps
Frame reps work hard, and rejection can feel personal. But good reps respect clear, criteria-based decisions far more than wishy-washy "maybe later" responses that waste their time.
Effective "no" scripts:
When the minimum buy is too high: "I appreciate the presentation—these are beautiful frames. Our current inventory strategy limits initial investments to $4,000 per new line, and your minimum buy exceeds that. If you're able to work with us on a smaller test order of 12-15 frames, I'd be interested in revisiting this. Otherwise, let's keep the door open for the future when we have more optical budget."
When margins don't work: "We love the quality and styling of this line, but when I run the numbers, the wholesale cost requires us to retail at prices that aren't competitive in our market while maintaining our margin requirements. If there's flexibility on wholesale pricing or if you launch a line with a better cost structure for independent practices, please reach out—we'd definitely reconsider."
When you already have too many similar lines: "These frames are great, but we currently carry three lines that serve a very similar style and demographic [name them], and they're performing well. Adding another line in this category would dilute sales across all of them rather than growing overall optical revenue. If you have collections in [gap category], I'd be interested in seeing those."
When vendor support is insufficient: "Here's what would make this work for us: co-op advertising support, quarterly trunk shows with a rep present, and display fixtures included. If you can provide that level of partnership, we'd commit to the line. If not, it doesn't make sense for us right now."
Key principles:
Be specific about why it doesn't work (not just "we're not interested")
Frame it as a business decision based on criteria, not personal preference
Leave the door open if circumstances change
Express appreciation for their time
Good reps will respect this approach and may come back with solutions that address your concerns.
Saying "No" to Your Team
Your opticians get excited about new frames. They attend frame shows, see Instagram posts, talk to colleagues at other practices. They'll bring you suggestions: "We should carry [Brand X]—everyone is talking about it!"
This is actually good—engaged staff who care about your optical selection are valuable. But you can't say "yes" to every request.
Effective team communication:
When you're declining a frame line they suggested: "I appreciate you bringing this to my attention—it shows you're paying attention to trends and thinking about what patients might like. I looked into [Brand X], and here's what I found: [specific concern—margins, minimum buy, etc.]. Our optical has to stay profitable to keep this practice healthy and your jobs secure. Right now, [Brand X] doesn't meet our margin requirements / doesn't fit our strategic direction / would require too much capital investment. Let's keep looking for lines that check all the boxes."
When the same team member repeatedly suggests expensive lines that don't fit: "I notice you gravitate toward high-end designer collections, and I appreciate that you have great taste! Here's our optical strategy: We focus on lines that offer 3x markup potential, turn at least 1.5 times per year, and align with our patient demographics. Before suggesting new lines, run them through that filter first. If a line meets those criteria and fills a gap we have, I'm all ears!"
Key principles:
Acknowledge their input positively
Explain the business reasons behind your decision
Educate them on your criteria so they can self-filter future suggestions
Connect profitability to their job security (makes it personal in a good way)
Saying "No" to Patients
Occasionally, patients will request specific brands you don't carry: "Do you have [Designer Brand] frames?"
Effective patient responses:
When you don't carry what they asked for but have something similar: "We don't currently carry [Brand], but I'd love to show you something similar that I think you'll love. [Show comparable frames]. These are [Your Brand], and they offer similar styling with [specific features]. Many of our patients love them. Want to try them on?"
When you deliberately don't carry what they want (usually due to margin/quality issues): "We made a decision to focus on brands that offer exceptional quality and value. [Brand they requested] didn't meet our standards for [quality/warranty/fit], so we partnered with [the brands you do carry] instead. They're fantastic—let me show you."
When they're insistent on a brand you don't carry: "I understand you have your heart set on [Brand]. We don't carry it here, but I'd still encourage you to try on what we do have—you might be surprised by what you find. If you ultimately decide you want [Brand], I respect that, and I'm happy to provide you with a copy of your prescription."
Key principles:
Don't apologize for not carrying every brand
Redirect to what you do carry with confidence
Position your selection as curated, not limited
Respect their choice even if they go elsewhere
Regular Inventory Review: When to Drop Existing Lines
It's not just about saying "no" to new lines. It's also about periodically saying "no" to underperforming lines you already carry.
Quarterly inventory review process:
1. Pull sales data for each frame line:
Units sold in past 12 months
Revenue generated
Gross profit margin
Turn rate (sales ÷ average inventory value)
Average days to sale
2. Rank lines by performance:
Identify top 5 performers (highest revenue, margin, or turn rate)
Identify bottom 3 performers
3. Decision criteria for dropping a line:
Turn rate below 1.0 (inventory sitting more than 12 months)
Gross margin below 40%
Declining sales trend (down 20%+ year-over-year)
Excessive warranty or quality issues
Vendor support has deteriorated
4. Communicate the decision:
To your team: "We're discontinuing [Brand] because it's not performing—it's only turned 0.6 times in the past year, well below our 1.5 target. We'll be replacing it with [New Brand or expanding existing successful brand], which better aligns with what our patients are actually buying. Please help me sell through existing [Brand] inventory over the next quarter."
To the rep: "We've decided not to reorder [Brand] after this quarter. The line hasn't performed to our expectations—specifically [low turn rate, quality issues, whatever]. This isn't personal, just business. If you launch new collections in the future that address these issues, we'd be open to reconsidering."
5. Create a clearance plan:
Discount remaining inventory 20-30% to accelerate sales
Train staff to actively recommend these frames ("Great news—these are on sale right now")
Set a deadline (90 days) to clear remaining inventory
After deadline, donate unsold frames to charity (tax deduction) or return to vendor if terms allow
Building a Curated Optical: Real Examples
Let's look at how this plays out in practice:
Practice A: Too Many Lines (The Before)
Carried: 12 frame lines
Total inventory: $45,000
Annual optical revenue: $120,000
Top 3 lines: Generated 75% of revenue
Bottom 5 lines: Generated 10% of revenue, tied up $18,000 in capital
Turn rate: 1.1x (barely moving)
Gross margin: 48% (heavy discounting to clear old inventory)
After strategic curation:
Carried: 6 frame lines (dropped bottom 6 performers)
Total inventory: $30,000 (freed up $15,000 in capital)
Annual optical revenue: $125,000 (slightly higher despite fewer lines)
Top 3 lines: Still generated 75% of revenue, now displayed more prominently
Turn rate: 1.8x (inventory moving much faster)
Gross margin: 58% (minimal discounting needed)
Result: Higher revenue, much higher profitability, freed capital invested in marketing that generated new patients.
Practice B: Strategic Frame Mix (The Goal)
This practice built their optical around a clear strategy:
Line 1: Premium designer (Gucci, Prada, similar)
Purpose: High-end patients, status/fashion conscious
Margin: 3.2x markup
Turn rate: 1.4x (slower but very high margin makes it worthwhile)
Revenue: 15% of total optical
Line 2: Fashion-forward independent brand
Purpose: Younger professionals, style-conscious, differentiation from competitors
Margin: 3.0x markup
Turn rate: 2.1x (strong seller)
Revenue: 35% of total optical
Line 3: Classic/professional frames
Purpose: Conservative patients, business professionals, reliability
Margin: 2.8x markup
Turn rate: 2.3x (bread and butter)
Revenue: 30% of total optical
Line 4: Value/accessible price point
Purpose: Budget-conscious patients, second-pair purchases, teens
Margin: 2.5x markup (lower margin but high volume)
Turn rate: 2.5x (fastest turner)
Revenue: 15% of total optical
Line 5: Sports/active lifestyle
Purpose: Athletes, outdoor enthusiasts, fills specific need gap
Margin: 3.0x markup
Turn rate: 1.2x (niche but needed)
Revenue: 5% of total optical
Total: 5 carefully chosen lines covering all major patient segments, each serving a distinct purpose, all meeting margin and turn-rate requirements.
Result: Clean, focused optical. Staff can confidently recommend from any line. Patients find what they need without overwhelm. Inventory turns efficiently. Margins stay healthy.
The Mindset Shift
Learning to say "no" to frame lines requires a fundamental mindset shift:
From: "More options are always better"
To: "Strategic curation creates better patient experience and profitability"
From: "If one patient might want it, we should carry it"
To: "We carry what serves most patients well, and refer out the rare exceptions"
From: "Saying no disappoints people"
To: "Saying yes to the wrong things damages the practice and ultimately disappoints more people"
From: "I need to please the rep/staff/patient"
To: "I need to build a sustainable, profitable practice that serves everyone long-term"
This isn't about being difficult or uncooperative. It's about being a disciplined business owner who makes strategic decisions based on data and criteria rather than emotion and pressure.
Taking Action This Week
If you suspect you're carrying too many frame lines or saying "yes" too often:
Monday: Pull 12-month sales data for each frame line you carry
Tuesday: Calculate turn rate and gross margin for each line
Wednesday: Score each line using the decision matrix above
Thursday: Identify your bottom 2-3 performers and decide whether to drop them
Friday: Communicate decisions to affected reps and your team
Ongoing: Use the framework for every new line presented to you
Curated inventory isn't limiting—it's liberating. It frees up capital, simplifies operations, improves patient experience, and increases profitability.
Every "no" to the wrong frame line is a "yes" to running a healthier, more focused, more profitable practice.
